Hyperpigmentation is a common skin condition in which irregular patches of skin  become darker than the surrounding area. It can affect all skin types, at any age and  these darker areas are the result of excess melanin production, which can be caused  by everything from acne scars to sun damage. Whilst not typically harmful,  hyperpigmentation is one of the biggest skin concerns as it gives the skin an uneven,  dull appearance.

What is Hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation is an umbrella term that covers the visible overproduction of  melanin. The top three cosmetic issues that we see in clinic are melasma, post-acne  marks and sunspots (or solar lentigines). 

Melasma is distinctive in appearance, due to its map-like shape, with patches of grey  or brown pigmentation seen on the forehead, cheekbones and upper lip. It’s strongly  influenced by genetics and can be triggered by hormonal changes and UV and  Visible Light exposure. 

Post-acne marks are the red or brown dark marks left behind after a breakout heals  or any dubious skin picking! Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation will typically fade  slowly even without any intervention but a comprehensive pigmentation strategy will  hugely accelerate the results. 

Sunspots are fixed, flat round brown marks often found on any area that’s been  exposed to the sun, such as the face and hands. Sunspots are often larger than  freckles and are more permanent than freckles too, in the sense that sunspots don’t  change much in appearance with the season. 

How to treat hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is the biggest stealer of radiance as it causes a discoloured and  uneven skin tone. Thankfully, although tackling stubborn hyperpigmentation can take  time and patience, it’s one of the easiest beauty fundamentals to improve. Here are  the top behaviours and practices that really move the needle in helping you to  reclaim bright, clear skin. 

1. Know what you’re treating 

There are several factors that can cause and exacerbate pigmentation so knowing  what type of pigmentation you have is crucial to treating it effectively. The three most 

common forms are melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and sunspots but  there are more unusual conditions that can look similar but require very different  treatment. If we were in any doubt we would refer you to a dermatologist. a  dermatologist. 

2. Sun Protection is a must 

It won’t come as a surprise that the sun’s UV rays can worsen hyperpigmentation.  UVA rays penetrate deeply into the dermis so it’s crucial to use a broad spectrum  (UVA and UVB) sunscreen every day of the year. High-energy blue light is also  problematic and seems to produce darker and more persistent pigmentation in those  with darker skin or in those suffering from melasma. 

3. Antioxidants are essential 

Free radicals from pollution, UV and cigarette smoking can all trigger pigmentation.  One of the best ways to neutralise that effect is by incorporating antioxidants  ingredients into your skincare routine. 

Vitamin C is the most commonly used antioxidant, which helps to suppress  pigmentation. It works by reducing the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible  for synthesising melanin and, hence, less pigment is produced. 

Building a well-structured routine to prevent future hyperpigmentation should contain  sunscreen and antioxidants. 

4. Reduce Melanin Production 

Melanocytes are the cells that produce melanin and pass it into our skin cells - the  keratinocytes. The most effective way of suppressing melanocyte function is to target  an enzyme called tyrosinase. 

The gold standard is topical hydroquinone, which we use on prescription in the clinic  at a 4% strength. We would always recommend that this is done under the  supervision of a medically qualified aesthetic practitioner because there is quite a lot  of nuance to how it’s prescribed in order to be used correctly and safely. 

For at-home use, one of the best alternatives is azelaic acid, which is also one of our favourite ingredients. Azelaic acid can also be used when pregnant or breastfeeding,  both of which are times when hormones can drive pigmentation to worsen. It can  even be used when other issues co-exist such as acne or rosacea.

5. Step-Up Your Exfoliation 

For existing hyperpigmentation, regular exfoliation will help remove dead skin cells  allowing pigmentation to fade and lessen in appearance. The two categories of  ingredients that will stimulate this process most effectively are alpha-hydroxy acids,  such as glycolic acid or lactic acid and retinoids, both of which will encourage the  elimination of keratinocytes from the stratum corneum. Not only will exfoliation fade  surface pigmentation, but it will also boost the overall luminosity and glow to your  skin. 

With chemical exfoliants, it’s crucial not to over-exfoliate as it can damage your  protective skin barrier and trigger more melanin if you use a product that is too  strong. As with everything, slow and steady wins the race. 

6. Don't make matters worse 

If you pick or scratch your pimples you’re going to create a lot more pigmentation  than if you just let it be! 

7. Consider oral supplementation for an inside-out approach 

Skincare supplements are often a grey area but there are promising clinical studies  that some ingredients can help improve hyperpigmentation. 

We can recommend Advanced Nutrition Programme supplements, ideal for skin  health. 

FINAL THOUGHTS 

A multi-tasking approach always works best when treating hyperpigmentation,  especially with carefully chosen products and ingredients. It can be challenging to  put everything together yourself so let us help you create the correct regimen bespoke for you. 

Wishing you all bright, clear skin! Get in contact if you're looking to eradicate that pigmentation!